Once again I’ve fallen off the workout blog wagon. I just got busy.
But now that my chorus show is over I have a lot more time (9 rehearsals the week of the show, besides the two performances).
So, at this point it is October 10th, there was no need for my services on Saturday the 9th due to the Men’s 4 making other arrangements with Grant, and only three others showing up. Yes, Susan, if you and Sean don’t oversleep we have a four to row. Thanks for not making it, thought, because I wouldn’t have had time to finish my preparations if I’d had to coach that morning. We also had one evening this the previous week where we didn’t have enough to go out.
Now I can concentrate on the Head of the Bull Trout preparations.
Toward that end the morning ladies have been rowing longer runs – Bill Point to Bill Point via the inner-inner harbor (outer bay of the waterway conservancy). This run takes about all of the morning time except the warm-up to the point and the shot back to the beach. Some mornings we can get a bit more into it.
I’ve designated October the month of Set! That is, we will be working on the things that contribute to boat set this month. If I were to list these they would include:
- Off Center Weight
- Head On Center-Line
- Knees Even
- Body Twist
- Entry Timing
- Early
- Late
- Exit Timing
- Early
- Late
- Blade Depth (in water)
- Too Deep
- Too Shallow
- Changing
- Blade Height (on recovery)
- Too High
- Too Low
- Dragging
- Release Cleanness
- Entry Verticality
- Catch Speed
Look at the sub-list for off-center weight. Besides leaning your body (head off center-line), you will note that I’ve mentioned knees. As we get older it is easier to become less nimble or to add weight that prevents us from getting as much body lean aft as we would like. The simple solution, one often taken by masters, is to drop the outside knee outside of the outside arm so the right shoulder can reach further. I don’t advise this for two reasons. First, if you move one knee to the side and not move the other as far the other way you have shifted your weight off center. Second, lifting a large amount we are always advised to keep our knees together to prevent hernias. In lifting you are fighting gravity. In rowing you are doing the same action, but the water (via the oar handle) is providing the opposition. It is still the same action, however, and can result in a hernia if you do it with your knees spread. So for both the boat balance and your own health please don’t move that knee out to get more reach. Consider, instead, lowering your feet closer to the bottom of the boat by adjusting the foot stretchers downward. If they are already as low as they can go, you may be at your limit for reach (we all have one). The other place people tend to go for more reach is body twist. Some of this is acceptable, if it doesn’t pull your weight off center. But too much twist puts a real strain on your back and gets you pulling at an angle that doesn’t have much force behind it. On top of that, you are not pulling down the boat axis, so your pull actually tends to rock the boat. If you can’t figure out how come see me and we’ll go through the physics of why so you can see, but I’m not sure I can describe it properly without visual aids.
Early or late timing for entry and exit leave some oars in the air (pulling down on that side) and some in the water (lifting on that side) and thereby affect the balance of the boat.
Blade depth during the pull affects the lift provided by that oar, as well as the ease of release. The deeper the oar blade the more flotation (lift) it provides on that side of the boat. The shallower the oar blade the less flotation. There is an additional effect of too shallow, though. When your blade is too shallow it tends to create a bigger lip (the wave your oar leaves in the water). This larger lib may impact following oars so that in hitting it they provide lift on that side, as well as drag on the boat. So we need to balance these issues on both sides by having all oars the same depth. Changing blade depth by either a hump (camel) stroke or an angled stroke makes for changing lift from that oar, which in turn makes balance a moving target throughout the stroke. This changing blade depth not only changes flotation provided by the oar, it also put an up or down force on the oarlock, depending on whether you are raising it or lowering it. Changing blade height during the recovery also changes balance, by providing that push up or down on the oarlock.
Blade height during the recovery affects boat balance, too. The obvious effect is when the oar is dragging, and that is serious. It tends to lift that side of the boat. If your oar is dragging and your side of the boat is high, you are making the problem worse. But consider the case of an oar that is too high. Think back on the last time you saw someone walking a tightrope with a balance bar in their hands. What did they do with that bar to keep their balance? They did two things: move the bar side to side to move their body the other direction, and tilt the bar to change their balance slightly. When you raise your oar too high above the water you are affecting the balance just as the tightrope walker is when he tilts his pole. Ditto with too low (but not touching the water). So you should be aiming to keep your oar the same distance off the water as everyone else. This starts with the stroke, since he/she can’t see anyone else’ oar. You must try to find the same height. Don’t worry if you can’t see the blade without turning (you are sitting near the stern), you can tell a lot by looking at the oar handle between the rigger and the stroke’s body.
Release cleanliness is important to balance because of the severe effect it can have. If your oar is too deep it is almost impossible to get your exit timing the same as everyone else, but it is also difficult to get the blade out without lifting water, which has a downward thrust on that side of the boat.
Entry verticality is important because any angle on the blade when it is put into the water will cause either lift or drop pressure, depending on whether you are pulling on the oar or not. This is one of the reasons I’m always harping on getting the blade rolled up before you start the catch. If you aren’t going straight down you are tipping the boat.
Catch speed is important to balance because a blade that is deeper than others (going in faster) is giving lift (via flotation) to that side of the boat, and one too shallow (going in slower) is not giving enough lift to that side of the boat.
We are all human (until we integrate a few aliens into our crew), so we all make mistakes. One mistake that is perfectly natural is to attempt to counter balance issues. So, when you introduce a balance problem there are X (number of rowers plus number of coxswains) people automatically shifting their weight to balance it. The chances that they will each do only 1/X of the effect needed is ridiculously small, so the correction we all make will over-correct the problem, thus introducing a significant balance issue that everyone in the boat will naturally try to fix. This begins a severe oscillation problem in the balance. So, by making a tiny mistake you introduce a significant balance issue that can take a while to work its way back to neutral. We all make mistakes, but we can attempt to limit their effect on the boat by reducing the balance issues we individually introduce, and consciously trying not to counter them when others introduce them.
I hope this has given you a few ideas on what to do (and not do) to help balance a boat.
Coach Tom